Day 5: Room with a view

We are staying in a 17th century nobleman’s house today. Our room is on the top floor, so we have some lovely views.

Day 5: PORETA – TREVI, (12 km - 7.5 miles)

Today we hit the wall, less figuratively and more literally. With an uphill climb that ended into a wall that surrounds a hilltop monastery. We left Poreto early because the weather predicted rain and we wanted to arrive to Trevi before rainfall. 

We started uphill through olive groves and with low clouds framing the hillside. It was a rolling walk much of the day as we worked our way through the steep terraced slopes of these centuries-old olive groves. 

To get across to Trevi required a bit of an uphill which started as a narrow single track through wet woods, then at its opening, the straight ascent to the wall. After that we walked another 3km to Trevi, winding up to the top. 

The group was in good spirits having accomplished this leg of our trek and we celebrated in the piazza with by having an aperitif consisting of Aperol Spritz and snacks.

Olive Mill

Day 4: SPOLETO – PORETA, (14 km - 8.7 miles)

"I've never seen anything more pleasing than my Spoletina valley" exclaimed Saint Francis himself upon admiring the beauty of the fields, the olive groves and the little towns that make up the region between Spoleto and Assisi. Our walk today follows trails that connect several hamlets surrounded by olives, oak trees and pine forests

Food in Spoleto

Day 3: CESELLI – SPOLETO, (17 km - 10.5 miles)

Today only 3 of us opted to walk. Elena had a chest congestion and asthma flair up and the heat from yesterday made today a rest day for Nehitah & Lois.

The trail was tougher today, but the weather cooler. We start with Judy as our guide near Ceselli and ascend for about two hours, with flat sections peppered throughout allowing us to catch our breath and walk with long strides. The hiking takes us through woods, forests, creeks and abandoned hamlets. The views of the mountains, the gorge and the valley below were incredible. I also quite enjoyed the stretches where I walked alone on the single track. I could pause within the woods, look at the dappled light on the leaves, and take in small sounds such as a slight breeze weaving through the trees.




At the top, we stop for a delicious lunch of fruit and sandwiches made from thick flavorful bread and filled with prosciutto, marinated eggplant, cheese, and tomato. Then, with Virgino, we start a gradual descent through a meadow and around a bend, serenaded by a pack of dogs on the neighboring farms. We pass by lines of laundry drying, chickens walking about on the street. We finish this part of the hike quickly, ending in a park where the van awaits. Jumping in for a short ride into the town of Spoleto, just in time actually, as rain started to fall in large droplets.




Our hotel is very nice and has a large shower. Showers here are about the width of your body and with no ledges for soap and shampoo, you feel a bit like a contortionist. Today I feel zestfully clean!

The rain has let up - just scattered sprinkles and weather permitting we will tour around Spoletto with our guide, Virgino, at 5:15pm before going for dinner.

Day 2: Field Notes

Today we headed toward Arrone at 9am. We walk up into the town, taking time for pictures and walking about the town. Then we walked toward Ferentillo, where we visit a church, see a bunch of mummies and have an extremely thoughtful lunch (caprese salad, eggplant, prosciutto and bread). From there we walk 4km to a hamlet then trekked another 5km to finish in Ceselli. From there, we visited Abbey of San Pietro in Valle which was built in 720 AD by Faroaldo II Duke of Spoleto. Insid the abbey we viewed exhibits frescoes, sarcophaguses and got to go up onto the alter.

It was a long day but only the beginning...tomorrow will be much more challenging. But let’s not rush into tomorrow before looking at the food we ate.

Before dinner:

• Spritz 
• Small meat and cheese plate 
• Bread with Olive Oil 
• Homemade Bigne (by Virginio’s mom)

Before dinner meeting we listened to Il Cantico Delle Creature (A. Branduardi) which is based off a poem written by St. Francis two years before he died. I felt this was very meaningful and appreciate Virgino taking the time to print copies of the poem: the song in Italian, the poem in vulgare (Latin meaning is “the people’s language), and in English.

Dinner is at 7:45, we eat:

• Ravioli with meat 
• Lamb Stew 
• Zucchini and Eggplant 
• Tomatoes and Potatoes 
• Biscotti that we dip in wine 
• Meringue

Bedtime. Ciao!

Day 2: Arrone to Ceselli (15km - 9.3 miles).

Today, we walk along the river Nera to reach the small town of Ferentillo. We later visit Abbey of San Pietro in Valle.

Day 1 Field Notes

At 10am, we meet the rest of our group at the Terni train station. There are 4 others on the tour (Keith, Nahita, Lois, and Elena), Judy (owner of Spanish Steps) and Virginio (local guide whose home town is in Viterbo).

Keith and Nahita met in Toronto but now live in the UK. Nahita is friends with Lois who also lives in Toronto. Elena is from Seattle but has been living in Madrid for almost 2 years now, having a son that is living in Spain for some time it just makes sense for her to also live there. Lois has grandchildren that play ice hockey in Canada. I didn’t get as much conversation with Nahita and Keith but I get the impression they have done many tours with Spanish Steps.

We start walking nearby to the waterfall at Marmore. Our first views included a double rainbow and as we walked further down to the overlook we got completely drenched! Thankful for the rain poncho!! From there we continue to descend and at the bottom, we stop for lunch.

Walking through the Nera Valley was quite beautiful. It was a hot day and the moments in direct sun were brief. We walked alongside the river and see fig trees, grape vines, apple trees and hearty yellow flowers that resemble tulips. The trail was fast and flat, when we turned a corner we saw the hillside town of Casteldilago, our destination for the day.

It’s a climb to get into the town and to our apartments. But the views are amazing and distracted the mind from complaining muscles.

All things included, today was about 10 miles of walking.

After a shower and lie down, we visited the restaurant to have some cold drinks, and ended up spending a lot of time talking with Sara who was working there today. Then we walked around town, sat on a bench to enjoy the town in quiet, and had a botched conversation using google translate with some locals.

At 6:30pm, I relax in my room and listen to the sounds of the town - birds singing, some cars in the distance, and the marching band performing in the neighboring town of Arrone. Each time the band starts a lively march a dog howls in what sounds like agony.

Dinner was at 7:30-10pm. It was a multi course meal:

• Eggs with truffle on a hash-brown style potato 
• Bread trio: bruschetta, ricotta, pate 
• Lentils, Spelt salad, White Beans with Prosciutto, Puréed Fava Bean 
• Meat plate: prosciutto and salami 
• Two meat courses: young goat and fresh sausage 
• Zuppa Inglese (a trifle) 
• Espresso 

The band is still playing lively tunes at 10:30pm ...including thriller and YMCA. We try to settle ourselves for a day of walking tomorrow. Breakfast starts at 8am and then we walk at 9am.

Day 1: Terni to Arrone (10km - 6.2 miles).

Today we begin a 100km pilgrimage from Terni to Assisi,

We start on a lake called Piediluco. We will follow the river Velino to reach Marmore to see the Cascata (waterfall). From there we trek the Nero valley to the hilltop villages of Arrone and Casteldilago.

We head out - small group of 6





This is where we sleep tonight



These are the views of the falls

Hello, Terni

I love being off the beaten path. Terni is definitely hitting that strongly for me today having been in large bustling cities.

 
I checked more than one on this, but we payed $65E for this place. It’s absolutely huge with a full kitchen, full dining room, sitting room, an entire wing with two more bedrooms, and office and bathroom.

Here are some pictures:

Our living room

Ate lunch here

Florence, Lucca, Pisa, San G

On our last morning in Florence, we visited Galleria dell'Accademia di Firenze (where Michelangelo’s statue of David resides for those of you just tuning in). We lucked out again having just booked an early skip-the-line tour the day prior, and were in a small group of four. We were able to view David without large crowds around us then went back to the earlier works as more people arrived. The unfinished sculptures were fascinating because here you can see how Michelangelo approached his art. He was a bit of a risk-taker, actually; instead of making a clay model and using it to work 360 around the marble, he let the form emerge out of the marble. 

Leaving the gallery, we hurry back to pack because our checkout time is 10am sharp. Returning to get our car, the attendant shows frustration as we didn’t give him enough notice. So back into the streets for more sightseeing as we wait for our car to be retrieved from who knows where. Returning an hour later we see our car arrive but it gets buried with other cars and we wait 15 minutes longer watching a very laborious, circuitous, and passionate process.

And with the car retrieved, we head to Lucca, Pisa and then to San Gimignano where we will sleep.

Maybe we were tired or maybe our expectations were really high, but Lucca was just ok. We walked along the wall of the city but if we weren’t aware that we were up on a wall, you’d think you’re in any city street. Going down into the town, I can see it’s medieval charm. Lots of cafes and shops with high-end clothing, leather, and jewelry. There’s only so many times I can drag Tom out shopping and I didn’t want to use my credits here (so I feigned disinterest while doing side eyes into the store windows, we leave the town of Lucca).

We almost skipped Pisa after our “meh” experience in Lucca. Arriving in Pisa, we park directly across from the tower. The street was lined vendors appearing to be from India and Africa, which is different than we saw previously in Venice and Florence. Passing through the gate and with the mindset we were only taking a picture and leaving made us relax. Looking down the line of people taking the stereotypical picture was a light-hearted moment. After taking our silly pictures, we toured around and looked at the surrounding structures.

Leaving Pisa, we drove in the peaceful countryside of Tuscany, arriving to San Gimignano before sunset. Rick Steve’s didn’t have many nice things to say about this hill town but we found it much more interesting than Lucca. Walking the town was hilly but easy and rambling with breathtaking views. Our host, Pierluigi, was extremely gregarious and besides recommending an off-the-beaten path restaurant for dinner, presented me with a travel book as a gift for my upcoming birthday. I wish we had a longer stay, but now we enter the hiking stage of our trip.

Hello, San Gimignano

Where we are staying tonight. I may have fallen in love.

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