Walking back from the Castle - Segovia

Lots of stork nests

Segovia

Aqueduct in Segovia

Devil guy

This diablo wields a broom and isn't afraid to use it!

Hello Segovia

Our last full day in Spain, we arrive in Segovia. Like Salamanca, our hotel is situated on the Plaza Mayor. Unlike Salamanca, this hotel (Hotel Infanta Isabel) is very nice. Driving into the city is, in a word, chaotic. Everything is moving quickly and the narrow roads with hard to read street names are confusing. With badly spoken Spanish, we ask for directions, and as we say in the computer world: garbage in, garbage out - we got bad directions as we were parked very far from the Plaza Mayor. We were in a rush because we were meeting Toms old childhood neighbor who was coincidentally in Spain at the same time. Bob took at tumble which reminded me of a stuntman the way he jumped right back up and continued walking.

Segovia is full of music today. I asked at reception if today was a special day and as far as I could understand, for 3-4 days after summer solstice there is a music festival. As we walked to the Plaza, we met up with street musicians who were dancing and playing instruments. This continued from noon until around 1pm. We sat out at the tables in front of our hotel and were treated with several more parading street performers in funny costumes (I'll post some pictures and a link to a YouTube video - wifi permitting).

The boys are done. They made a begrudged trip down to the aqueduct after which we fed them with more pizza and ice cream. While Tom and I explored the city, the boys stayed sequestered in their room watching Spanish cartoons and napping.

The parades start again at 8pm, we have reserved a table in the Plaza and I hope to extract the boys from their rooms. Although we have probably better views from our rooms.

I'll post more pix en un momento.

Astronaut

Who can tell me where this is?

Walking in Salamanca

Heading back to the Plaza Mayor.

Salamanca - watching futbol in the plaza

The place is packed! TVs everywhere in this beautiful plaza.

Snow White in Plaza Mayor - Salamanca

Um - yah

Hold me, I'm scared (welcome to Salamanca)

Um. Toto, we are not in Galicia nor Austurias anymore. What a crazy city! Impossible to find the hotel without getting out on foot. Then needed to get someone from the hotel to lead our car thru a pedestrian area to the secret garage entrance (where we had a near miss with a scooter). Then down an impossibly narrow pathway down down down. Then the hotel guy offered to park in a narrow corner much smaller than our car using a 400 point turn to park the vehicle. Up up up the stairs we went with all our luggage. Felt like I was on the amazing race - missing the Camino.

Here we take the daring diversion from 4 star hotels. We are in a 3 room "apartment" that is reached only by a scary labyrinth and feels sub-terrain. It is hot here. Sweat rolls off my face as I type this. No AC. We have to sleep with the windows open... But tonight is the summer solstice and it may get loud - we are right on the Plaza Mayor where a sound system is being erected. Already there are large groups of people in the streets. A rowdy bachelor party passes - everyone in matching pink shirts. I can tell you one thing for sure - I'm not hanging out in this pit of an apartment more than I have to! Watch out Salmanca, I'm about to join you.

A picnic with a view

This is a view from where we picnicked today (Puebla de la Sanabria) enroute to Salamanca.

Puebla de Sanabria

Before we left Compostela, I picked up some food for a roadside picnic (apples, bread, tuna empanadas, ham & cheese empanadas, chips, sprite, twix). Who knew we would find such a picturesque place to have lunch?! According to the map, this Puebla is situated in Spain near the northeast corner of Portugal. It is also on one of the veins of the Camino. The next picture is a view from the castle located here, and a view from where we picnicked.

Goodbye Northern Spain

After finishing the Camino - every step of the last 100km and probably another 30-50km in the days preceding - we slept 10 hours.

Yesterday as we wandered the narrow cobble stone streets in Compostela, my thoughts kept returning to our guides. I had no idea the profound impact they would have on my life. I think it was the way they interacted with my boys that really touched me. I may never cross paths with Jorge and Mario again, but there is comfort in knowing they are continuing to spread goodwill to those that come after us.

Today we drive to Salamanca. I hear Tom just now returning with the van. Until later....

The Lennans are in Santiago de Compostela

The boys sit overlooking the main square.

As you enter the square you hear bagpipes playing and see a mass of people reclining on their bags - recovering from a long journey.

While Grandpa, Hank, and Tom went to mass, the boys, Jorge, Mario, and I went off in pursuit of Tarta de Santiago (an almond cake, tradition for the region but Jorge says most are made outside of Santiago). Then we had some of Mario's homemade sideria while we waited for the men to emerge from mass.

Lunch today would be the last with Jorge and Mario. I tried to push away the dread of having to say goodbye so I could enjoy this meal. We had: clams, scallops (served in the shell), pimentos (green grilled/deep fried peppers), pinchos, pork, steak with cheese sauce - all the share.

After lunch we said our goodbyes and I found it very difficult. I felt a huge emptiness rush in and I felt very small and exposed in the large Praza do Onradoiro. As they walked out of the plaza, I saw Mario remove his sunglasses to wipe his eyes and Jorge put his arm around Mario's shoulders and then they disappeared in the crowd. It was overwhelmingly touching.

Final approach to Compostela

The final descent was through a business district - I guess I was expecting something more meaningful and serene. You can see the cathedral in the distance!

Friday - 10K

We had only 10km to walk to reach Compostela. This the pope's monument about 4km more!

As we near

Thursday - More symbols and memorials are along the Camino as we get under 15km.

10 Kilómetro más hoy

Having a break for lunch in Pedrouzo. Pizza y Sprite y vino y cerveza. It's the way the other pelegrinos do it.

Thursday - Arzua to Santa Irene

Thursday - this is a photo of Santa Irene.

We don't have wifi tonight. Will post again on Friday.

Holy Cow

On the last 5km of today's trek, we came face to face with this.

Our new friends

What is fun now is that the Frances Camino and the Camino del Norte have merged! And with that comes more people! These women are from Ireland (the youngest is horrified of being photographed). They are doing 100km and confessed to us that after the first 25km that for 3 Euro each, they send their backpacks by taxi to their next destination.

Not all walls

Well, it looks like graffiti from the American eye, but this may very well be art. This is right before Arzua.

The Rain in Spain

Whoever said: "the rain in Spain falls mostly on the plain" has obviously never been to northern Spain.

Today (Wednesday) we had some light rain after we stopped for lunch. Jorge spoiled the boys today - made them Chicken and Fritas! I cannot help but be continued to be amazed by how observant and kind Jorge is - he watches what the boys eats and thinks of them when shopping for lunch. This is more than I do back at home!

Donkey or Mule - I can never tell

OK...so it looks like we are off the grid for a couple of days.

We start our walk today and very soon we are greeted by this gregarious woman. She was speaking many words to us en Espanol, makes me wish I had a vocabulary of more than 20 words.

I'm in love

They tell us we are staying in an apartment tonight and tomorrow (wed & thu). This is a 3 bedroom house perhaps bigger than my own. For sure the yard is much larger. I'm in love with this room. I'm in love with this house (more photos later).

Miercoles

Today we will walk the longest stretch - 26.5km. I wish I was feeling stronger; today I have back pain :-(

We start in Castro with 58.4km to go.
5.1km to Corredoiras
3.1km to Boimorto
3.0km to Sendelle where we will have lunch.
7.7km to Arzua
7.6km to Calzada

If there is no post after this, then you know I didn't make it :)

Our new friends

At dinner tonight we met these two handsome men. They are on day 84 (I believe) having started in Geneva Switzerland. They gave us a tip for when we visit Salamanca. I will post a picture when we find what they told us about. This will be on Saturday or Sunday.

Nearing Sobrado Dos Monxes

Lunch spot

Another teeter totter

El Sello en Marcela

Lunch near Meson

Monastery Sobrado Dos Monxes

Our happy guides

58.4km more to go

I figured I should post a pix with me in it so you know I was actually along for the trip.

Today was a 23.4km rolling hills trek, starting at Alto de Mamoa and ending in Castro. My legs and feet are very sore today and we have a 26.5km trek tomorrow.

6.4km to Marcela. We got a stamp here.

7.4km to Meson. We had a picnic lunch just before Meson. Today's lunch was pasta in a light cream sauce with spinach, tomato, chunks of cheese plus a salad with walnuts, raisins, dried cranberries, carrot, corn plus bread and orange slices for dessert. Yum!

5.8km to Sobrados Dos Monxes. Here is where we found a monastery of the same name which dates back to the 12th century.

3.8km to Castro. Here Jorge was waiting with the van to take us back to visit the monastery and have a refreshment. Kyle, Hank and me are pictured outside in the plaza. Thanks Hank for buying the round of drinks including hot chocolate milk for the boys.

I'll post various pictures I took along todays route then I must soak my aching body. Lucky we are staying Guitiriz Hotel Balneario again tonite.

Pulpo para mi cena

Tonight's meal

Connor on the Camino

3km more to go today. 85km more to go in total.

Cafe Rustico

We got a stamp in our passport here too.

21.5 of 100km - Baamonde to Alto de Mamoa

Today we walked 21.5 km. This final 100km is what we need to do to be recognized in Santiago de Compostella as Pelegrinos.

3.4km to Capela de San Alberte. This was by road. Then we turned off on our way to Santa Leocadia. This photo is taken at that spot. Here it is a pretty walk with rolling hills - mostly all under tree cover.

4.4km to Santa Leocadia. Here we had Paella, caprese salad, bread, vino y a fruit and yogurt dessert. Let's just say I may be putting on a few pounds in spite of all the walking!

7.4km to Miraz. Here we got a stamp in our Santiago passports.

6.3km to Alto de Mamoa. Was very glad to see Jorge waiting at the van. Pretty constant ascent on this stretch.

Ribadeo

Our hotel in Galicia

I walk alone

Yesterday we walked La senda Naviega. You can see by the picture that we were not alone. Apparently this was also the day of an annual walk. And so, we joined the mass of some 2000 other people on this rolling pathway along the ocean. At certain parts along the way a band of bagpipers greeted us with traditional music and some of the walkers took to dancing! Lunch was a picnic on the beach - empanadas, "pregnant bread" bollo prenado (bread cooked with chorizo inside), fruit, cheese, vino, y cerveza. After the walk, we arrived by boat into Galicia where we we focus on 100km trek to Compestella. Today, we walk 21km in a very rural area. Jorge warned me about the "kisser" on this part of the route. This is an old man who offers water - when you get closer, he offers his hand to shake, then when you get closer he kisses you on the cheek and then tries to kiss you on the lips. His goal is to kiss all the women on the Camino. Not today.

Gijon lunch

Today we had a "grill" lunch. This was fritas under beef, pork ribs, lamb, chicken!

Pictured here (left to right): Mario, Jorge, Hank, Judy, Grandpa (Bob), Tom, Connor, Kyle. Not pictured: Bryce and me.

Judy is the owner of "Spanish Steps." It was an unexpected surprise to have her meet up with us today!

Austuria - Gijon

Continuing from Playa de Nora, the rain lets up. We walked another 8km to the outskirts of Gijon. The start was a brutal 100m ascent that was immediately rewarded with spectacular views! The pathway on which we walked was gorgeous but very slippery at times. Grandpa got a fast pass, avoiding the grueling climb, and we met up with him 30 minutes into our trek. We traveled through sleepy outcropping of homes, an occasional dog barking its warning, a wandering cat, a vocal bird - but mostly we were alone on this path. The ocean was our companion, and along the way we discovered parks with modern art sculptures, flowers and amazing vistas. As we passed a campground, we knew we were getting close to our destination. Again, Mario this time sitting on a picnic table patiently awaits our arrival. The boys find a fun sand play place with a metal digger and running water and occupy their time until the rest arrive. It's 3:30 and time for lunch....

Austuria - Playa de Nora

Today we woke to rain. Our guides, both native Austurians, tell us that Austurians go to the mountains even when it isn't raining. The first part of today's adventure was a 4.5km trek to Playa de Nora. It was a constant rain and we walked through muddy ruts paved by mountain bikes. A few mountain bike riders passed us and they were covered in mud all the way up their shirts. This was a technical walk because the ground was uneven and very muddy. The boys were moving quickly and I stayed with them...which meant we got some distance ahead of Tom, Hank, Grandpa, and Jorge. Soon the path narrowed, we became encased by trees, and were alone. It was an eerie feeling trudging along in the dim light hearing the rain drops pelting, the squish of foot meeting mud, and your own breathing. You begin to doubt that you took the correct fork in the road although the trail is well marked. The plaque announcing the presence of wild boar brings no comfort. Suddenly, I am leading with the boys trailing in close proximity. Then, the trees give way and we breathe easier. We see the ocean but even more welcoming is the outline of Mario in the distance and his infectious grin that we can already sense.

Picnic in Ribadesella

This is where we enjoyed our lunch today.

La Vega

We decided to stop in La Vega, a villa situated on the beach. Red umbrellas cover the inviting tables at this outdoor cafe/bar. Kyle & Bryce quickly jumped on the teeter-totter while Connor searched for an aseos that met his preference (the one here was just a hole in the ground).

Back on the Camino

Today we only did a small stretch of the Camino from Ribadesella to La Vega. Visited caves in Ribadesella which are thought to have the earliest examples of Paleolithic artwork in the world. Afterwards, we were treated to a picnic lunch. Then we forgo the afternoon leg of the Camino in favor of the beach (Bob and Hank chose to go another couple kilometers while we enjoyed a swim).

In the picture here, you can see the yellow arrow marking "the way" as we began our decent into La Vega.

Man vs Mussel

The moment before Bryce tries a mussel!

Dinner in Ribadesella

Last night we had a seafood dinner. Mussels, monk fish, tuna and anchovies (pictured below). Connor tried everything of course. The real shocker was to see Bryce joining in!