There’s no place like home

I loved my 3 week adventure in Italy, but there’s nothing like coming home. I tidied up the house before we left because I knew I’d be tired when we returned. The house immediately felt extremely spacious ...not all our accommodations were super tiny, but the last 5 days we were in definitely in smaller spaces.

We splurged on our airfare and it was worth every penny - the ease of going through security, the lounge with complimentary food & beverage, and being able to have legs fully extended and elevated was very appreciated especially with my injured ankles. We bought our tickets via FareBoom, for about $400 more round trip per person.

Connor was home when we arrived, which was unexpected and happy surprise. I’m going to have to ask him to repeat everything he told me because I was pretty wiped out. Slept from around 10:30pm until 5:30am. Hoping to fast track the jet lag.

This morning, I went to my happy little swing chair with a cup of coffee and listened to the day wake up. I am thankful for the cool temperature because it was very hot in Italy.

What happened to our watchdog ...is a mystery!



Tom went back to work already, but I took this day to recover and regroup. Going to walk, get my feet worked on, laundry and catching up.

Rome: Day 3

Hello Ancient Rome. We rolled the dice and bought a combo-ticket at the entrance to Palatine Hill and entered with no line. We turned left and pretty much had the place to ourselves. It was amazing to spend time amongst what were once emperor palaces. As we round the 2nd corner, we start seeing other visitors and then finally floods of people as the large walking tours engulfed the place.

Sidebar/vent: by now, I’m tired of the large walking tours. They are such a menace because a sudden heavy concentration of zombie-like humanoids take over an area serving as slow moving blockades. And they are everywhere clogging up the already busy walkways. The only thing they are good for is a traffic barrier when needing to cross busy streets.

After Palatine Hill, Tom suggests I do some shopping. I say: let’s try the Colosseum. It looks daunting and what’s different this time of day is the onslaught of people providing “information” and “help.” These were the people Rick Steve’s warned you about - working on fear of long lines. We practically walked right in with our combo ticket. It was a large place filled with other people doing the only thing you can really do in there: take selfies.

Regrettably we didn’t go to the Roman Forum (I know, I know). Instead we head to Ostia Antica, a ruined ancient port that rivals Pompei. It was a great afternoon exploring that site.

Our last night in Rome involved a slow stroll through the well crowded streets. This time, we didn’t mind the crowds. Walking to Piazza Navena to see other fountains and night time lights, we walk through myriads of street vendors and street performers. It was just a pleasant lively night that we finished with gelato and people watching in front of Trevi Fountain. Spoiler alert: word in the street is that the fountain will be filled with water tomorrow night.

Rome: Day 2

It’s an early start to meet our early entry tour at 7:15am. I chose the shortest tour that gets you right into the Sistine Chapel. Sat for quite a long time in there and then stood and studied the walls. Finally we exit to the Vatican Museums where we spent quite a bit time with the sculptures. Getting back to visit St. Peter’s Basilica was a holy traffic jam.

Happy to leave the growing crowds we walk back, visiting the Pantheon. All the time I’m in disbelief that I’m here doing all this.

After a short break, we decide to take the bus to Appian Way. This goes poorly, as we waited 40 minutes for the bus on both ends of this trip and exited too early. Having to walk for miles before getting to anything interesting. Both irritated we found our way back to the bus stop to wait for the 1 bus servicing this route. But what made it worth it was taking to Giusy, an Italian woman we had a wonderful conversation with.

Rome: Day 1

What a busy city. Getting from the Termini metro to the Trevi Station stop was easy. Navigating the street with full backpacks (and two hurt ankles) was not super fun. After checking into our lovely apartment (see previous post), we had a quick bite to eat before exploring the city. Overwhelmed with movement and noise, we escaped to Villa Borghese Gardens. Here it was quiet, with great views of Rome and Vatican City. 

Coming down from the garden, we stumble upon the Spanish Steps filled with people. We retreat into Spagna station and find ourselves exited at Coloseo. Stepping out of the metro station, there is the Colosseum in all its glory. It’s the end of the day and crowds are low. We explore this area, including Palatine Hill. 

On the way back, we found the co-op and bought groceries or dinner and breakfasts!

Hello Rome

We are staying in a cute little studio apartment on Trevi Fountain. The fountain is getting some work on it but that doesn’t stop hordes of people crowding around it all day and night. It’s actuslly easy to pass through around 7pm.

Ciao Assisi

In Assisi we said goodbye to our guide, Virgino, and our new friends Elena, Nahidah, Keith and Lois. I was so overcome with gratitude that the waterworks were a flowing from my eyes. We were a tight group, choosing to stay together even on the night we had on our own.

Tom & I had another full day in Assisi. We sectioned it up like this: Rick Steve’s audio walking tour, shopping, Roman museum, lunch, riposo, Rocco Maggiore, shopping, dinner.

The walking tour starter from Piazza Mazzeotti and headed toward the Basilica of St Francis. We have already been to the Basilica so we stopped short of that. After admiring the views, we head to the Roman Amphitheater which dates to the first century with the buildings circa 13th and 14th centuries.

We continue away from the amphitheater and through the neighborhoods on the back lanes before reaching Cathedral of San Rufino. It’s Sunday, and the church is filled so we only look through the door. Again through narrow lanes to the Basilica of St. Clare. We have wonderful views here. When we reach Piazza Del Commune, we see familiar sites - this is our “hood.”

I pop into a lovely store and buy some items and then again down the hill to a glass painter - perhaps I now have most of my Christmas shopping done?

The Roman Museum was amazing. It’s daunting to think that the town’s floor was below what stands now. I’ll need to read why later generations built on top of it.

After a rest, we climb to Rocca Maggiore (a medieval fortress) and are rewarded with views of two Basilicas - St Francis and St Clare. And we hear the bells ring at 6:30pm.

Leaving my worn shoes in Assisi ...we leave to Roma now.

Day 7: SPELLO – ASSISI, (16 km - 10 miles)

On this day we started above the Roman Aqueduct on a dirt road scouted previously by Virgino. We named the road La Cresta Panoramic. It was along the highest point and was a mild but continuous uphill that gently traversed alongside meadows. Here, we were presented views back to Spello, 360 views of the mountains and eventually views of Assisi.

We also walked alongside horses and interacted with social & inquisitive burros. Way up high on this crest, we were treated to watching a group of paragliders floating along the crest as they headed downward to Assisi.

We picnic in a grove of pine trees before we make our final descent into Assisi. My feet are profoundly tired from the days of climbing, walking and scrambling over gravel and rocks. I think my mind was also tired as well. The walk down to Assisi was alongside a regular road and an Italian man driving a Jaguar asked if he could drive us the rest of the way. But we pressed on, earning our Pellegrino certificate for walking the San Francesco to Assisi. Arriving at the gate of Porta Cappuccini which I called “pour me a cappuccino.”

Showered up, I have an Aperol Spritz with Elena by the fountain in the square. Then toured the Basilica di San Francesco d’Assisi before meeting up for our last dinner on the tour.

Day 6: TREVI – SPELLO, (19 km - 11.8 miles)

Today was an easy hiking day, getting only 37 flights of stairs logged vs 150+ flights in the past 3 days.

We walk out of Trevi, through the farmers market and out of the city wall. We head toward exact center of Italy to the town of Foligno. Again, we are amongst olive groves, walk through tiny villages, and get barked at by dogs as we pass through.

We stop for a coffee and to get our passport stamped between Santa Maria in Valle and Matigge and the have a snack just before Foligno. 

Then, we skip to a eastern approach to Spello, courtesy of the Spanish Steps van support. And we walk along a Roman Aqueduct into Spello. 

Here, we have another snack and wander around this town, window shopping and admiring the town’s charm. I’m tired today, and tomorrow will be a great day - lots of vistas, lots of climbing and the finish into Assisi.