Monday, June 18, 2012

Connor on the Camino

3km more to go today. 85km more to go in total.

Cafe Rustico



We got a stamp in our passport here too.

21.5 of 100km - Baamonde to Alto de Mamoa

Today we walked 21.5 km. This final 100km is what we need to do to be recognized in Santiago de Compostella as Pelegrinos.

3.4km to Capela de San Alberte. This was by road. Then we turned off on our way to Santa Leocadia. This photo is taken at that spot. Here it is a pretty walk with rolling hills - mostly all under tree cover.

4.4km to Santa Leocadia. Here we had Paella, caprese salad, bread, vino y a fruit and yogurt dessert. Let's just say I may be putting on a few pounds in spite of all the walking!

7.4km to Miraz. Here we got a stamp in our Santiago passports.

6.3km to Alto de Mamoa. Was very glad to see Jorge waiting at the van. Pretty constant ascent on this stretch.

Ribadeo

Our hotel in Galicia

Sunday, June 17, 2012

I walk alone

Yesterday we walked La senda Naviega. You can see by the picture that we were not alone. Apparently this was also the day of an annual walk. And so, we joined the mass of some 2000 other people on this rolling pathway along the ocean. At certain parts along the way a band of bagpipers greeted us with traditional music and some of the walkers took to dancing! Lunch was a picnic on the beach - empanadas, "pregnant bread" bollo prenado (bread cooked with chorizo inside), fruit, cheese, vino, y cerveza. After the walk, we arrived by boat into Galicia where we we focus on 100km trek to Compestella. Today, we walk 21km in a very rural area. Jorge warned me about the "kisser" on this part of the route. This is an old man who offers water - when you get closer, he offers his hand to shake, then when you get closer he kisses you on the cheek and then tries to kiss you on the lips. His goal is to kiss all the women on the Camino. Not today.

Gijon lunch

Today we had a "grill" lunch. This was fritas under beef, pork ribs, lamb, chicken!

Pictured here (left to right): Mario, Jorge, Hank, Judy, Grandpa (Bob), Tom, Connor, Kyle. Not pictured: Bryce and me.

Judy is the owner of "Spanish Steps." It was an unexpected surprise to have her meet up with us today!

Austuria - Gijon


Continuing from Playa de Nora, the rain lets up. We walked another 8km to the outskirts of Gijon. The start was a brutal 100m ascent that was immediately rewarded with spectacular views! The pathway on which we walked was gorgeous but very slippery at times. Grandpa got a fast pass, avoiding the grueling climb, and we met up with him 30 minutes into our trek. We traveled through sleepy outcropping of homes, an occasional dog barking its warning, a wandering cat, a vocal bird - but mostly we were alone on this path. The ocean was our companion, and along the way we discovered parks with modern art sculptures, flowers and amazing vistas. As we passed a campground, we knew we were getting close to our destination. Again, Mario this time sitting on a picnic table patiently awaits our arrival. The boys find a fun sand play place with a metal digger and running water and occupy their time until the rest arrive. It's 3:30 and time for lunch....

Austuria - Playa de Nora

Today we woke to rain. Our guides, both native Austurians, tell us that Austurians go to the mountains even when it isn't raining. The first part of today's adventure was a 4.5km trek to Playa de Nora. It was a constant rain and we walked through muddy ruts paved by mountain bikes. A few mountain bike riders passed us and they were covered in mud all the way up their shirts. This was a technical walk because the ground was uneven and very muddy. The boys were moving quickly and I stayed with them...which meant we got some distance ahead of Tom, Hank, Grandpa, and Jorge. Soon the path narrowed, we became encased by trees, and were alone. It was an eerie feeling trudging along in the dim light hearing the rain drops pelting, the squish of foot meeting mud, and your own breathing. You begin to doubt that you took the correct fork in the road although the trail is well marked. The plaque announcing the presence of wild boar brings no comfort. Suddenly, I am leading with the boys trailing in close proximity. Then, the trees give way and we breathe easier. We see the ocean but even more welcoming is the outline of Mario in the distance and his infectious grin that we can already sense.

Friday, June 15, 2012

Picnic in Ribadesella

This is where we enjoyed our lunch today.

La Vega

We decided to stop in La Vega, a villa situated on the beach. Red umbrellas cover the inviting tables at this outdoor cafe/bar. Kyle & Bryce quickly jumped on the teeter-totter while Connor searched for an aseos that met his preference (the one here was just a hole in the ground).

Back on the Camino

Today we only did a small stretch of the Camino from Ribadesella to La Vega. Visited caves in Ribadesella which are thought to have the earliest examples of Paleolithic artwork in the world. Afterwards, we were treated to a picnic lunch. Then we forgo the afternoon leg of the Camino in favor of the beach (Bob and Hank chose to go another couple kilometers while we enjoyed a swim).

In the picture here, you can see the yellow arrow marking "the way" as we began our decent into La Vega.

Thursday, June 14, 2012

Man vs Mussel

The moment before Bryce tries a mussel!

Dinner in Ribadesella


Last night we had a seafood dinner. Mussels, monk fish, tuna and anchovies (pictured below). Connor tried everything of course. The real shocker was to see Bryce joining in!